Over the past few decades, that number has grown exponentially and will likely continue growing. And what is the main cause of this textile waste crisis? The fast fashion industry.
Fast fashion is a phenomenon that has developed over the past forty years, referring to the mass-production of garments at a low cost and quality. It has had an enormous impact on both the environment and economies of low-income countries. Over 75 million people are employed as garment workers in the industry, most of them being paid unfairly: only about 2% are paid living wages. These workers often struggle to purchase basic necessities as a result but feel bound to their jobs because there are few better opportunities. Moreover, the dangerous factory conditions often put them in harmful situations and lead to injury. They are often exposed to malfunctioning machinery, high temperatures, falling objects, and spilled liquids, all of which create safety hazards for employees. The Western public, the main consumers of these products, has been made aware of these conditions, but are oftentimes more affected by their desire for cheap, trendy clothing than their outrage at the factory conditions.
Americans now buy 60% more clothing than in 2000, but keep each garment for half as long. Consumer demand for clothing has increased tremendously and is linked to the growth of the middle class, with fashion being viewed as a means of expression and indicator of social status. The fashion industry has changed to accommodate these demands, with many retailers focusing on reducing development times in ever-shortening fashion cycles. With GDP expected to quadruple by 2050, demand for clothing and negative impacts will only increase unless there is fundamental change in consumer attitudes and business structures.
Perhaps the biggest (and wholly negative) impact of the fast fashion industry is on the environment. It takes over 2700 liters of water to make ONE cotton shirt; imagine that number multiplied by the roughly 100 billion garments produced each year. Moreover, the used water is often contaminated with chemicals and returned to nearby water sources, contaminating the surrounding environment. Natural resources are being eaten up at an alarming rate, making the fast fashion industry entirely unsustainable in the long-term. Fast fashion also contributes to air pollution and is currently responsible for more carbon emissions than all international flights and shipping combined.
All in all, fast fashion has many negative social, economic, and environmental impacts. Although the ideal solution is policy change and elimination of fast fashion, it is unlikely to happen given the profit this industry generates. As a consumer, you can take action by shopping local, investing in durable clothing, and organizing clothing swaps. Hopefully, action is taken by businesses, governments, and consumers like you before it is too late.
